Inside this issue:
Areas of the Head
Head Position
Sectioning and Parting
Hair Distribution
Projection
Design Line
Texturising
Growth Patterns
Texture

Hi. In this edition of Hair Happenings, we look at the background knowledge you should have before you start cutting.

Cutting a hairstyle uses many structures and techniques that are combined to form the required style. Knowing the theory behind these techniques is essential for all hairdressers and will enable you to perform the cut in a knowledgeable and professional way. Producing these styles is a vital part of being able to meet the needs of all your clients, male or female.

So we are going to look at some of the background knowledge that you will use when cutting a client's hair.

The Essentials

Areas of the Head

There are two ways of dividing the head so that we know which part we are referring to. The first way divides the head into the interior, exterior and crest.

The crest area of the head (C) is the widest part of the bone structure of the head. The area above the crest is called the interior (I) and the hair normally sits flat to the head. The area below the crest is called the exterior (E) and this is where you can find a lot of variations in the growth patterns. The hair in this area is most influenced by gravity.

Another way of referring to the head, divides the head into five areas. The diagrams below show the head divided into these five areas.

F = front
C = crown
S = side
B = back
N = nape

Head Position

You must be aware of the head position whilst cutting any haircut, as this will affect the fall of the hair, which affects the direction of the design line and the texture. You should ensure the position of the head remains constant while cutting a particular area of the head.

By tilting the head forward, you will create an under- bevelling effect, particularly when cutting a solid form. This occurs because the hair at the nape is shorter than the outer lengths.

To get the most exact and natural result the head should be upright.

If you are going to work with the head on any angle, you must know what the outcome will be.

Sectioning and Parting

Sectioning involves dividing the hair into manageable and controllable areas. A basic sectioning pattern would be to part the head from the centre of the forehead to the centre of the nape, and across the head from ear to ear. The sectioning pattern you would use to section the head further, would depend upon the type of haircut you were cutting.

Parting

Partings are divisions of the larger sections of hair into smaller more manageable areas that enable you to work progressively and methodically. They are usually produced with a comb and generally run parallel to the design line.

Sections of hair are usually fastened with sectioning clips

   
 
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