Lines

Lines are frequently referred to when discussing how hairstyles are produced or when describing the shape of a hair cut. Hairdressing lines may be straight or curved.

Many people have trouble remembering which line is diagonal left and diagonal right. Concave and convex curves can also be a problem.

It might be a good idea to develop some 'memory aids' like words or drawings that you can use to remember the various lines.

Design Line

The design line is cut to serve as a length guide that is then used when cutting a section, or the remainder of the hair.

There are two types of design lines, mobile and stationary. A mobile design line changes with each section, or even parting, of hair cut. A stationary design line is one that is held at a constant angle and length and all the following partings are directed to that line before cutting.

In a solid form haircut, the design line may also be the perimeter line of the haircut.

Texturising (also called Thinning)

We texturise or thin hair to remove excess bulk in hair or to create movement or lift in a hair design. This is done by cutting shorter lengths within the main form of the hair.

If you have decided that texturising is required, you will need to choose the correct tool to achieve the desired result; texturising scissors will create a regular alternation of short and long lengths in the hair. Depending upon the size and how close or far apart the teeth are on the scissors, will result in more or less bulk being cut from the hair. Regular scissors and razors can also be used to texturise.

Growth Patterns

When completing a client analysis for haircutting, or any other hair designing, you would need to look at the growth patterns and the directions in which they are moving. This is normally observed on dry hair so the actual movement is not disguised. A strong growth pattern may make hair stand up or make the hair part, and if you were to cut the hair too short you may cause the hair to stand up.

The growth patterns are particularly important when using clippers or haircutting with a scissor over comb technique, as with either of these, you would be advised to cut against the growth to achieve the desired result.

Texture

With cutting, we see texture as being related to the type of haircut you are performing.

For example, a solid form haircut will give a smooth 'unactivated' surface texture, and this exists when only the top layer of the hair is visible.

A uniform layer haircut will result in an 'activated' or rough surface, due to the fact that all the ends of the hair are cut and exposed.